How to Grow Caladium Indoors

Caladium Care

Here are the main care requirements for growing caladiums:

• Cut off spathes (the floral spikes) as soon as they appear to encourage beautiful leaf growth.
• Expect the plant to go into dormancy in the fall or winter.
• Pull up the tubers (under-soil rooting structures) at the end of the growing season.
• Thrives in heat and humidity with bright, indirect light.
• Place in a northern or eastern-facing window if grown indoors.
• Pot in moist, well-draining, acidic soil.
• Fertilize every two weeks with liquid fertilizer.

Light

Caladium plants prefer indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the sun they can withstand. Growing them outdoors in containers gives you more control over light conditions. Some newer cultivars can be grown in full sun, but most caladiums need protection from too much intense light. When growing them in a garden, give them partial to full shade; full sun scorches their leaves.

Unless you live in zones 9 to 11, you should plan to grow them as annuals or dig up the plants’ tubers at the end of the growing season and store them for the winter.

Soil

Plant caladium in rich, well-drained soil in the garden or a potting mix for containers, such as a damp mix of soil and peat. Garden soil should be similarly rich and well-drained. The ideal soil pH is slightly acidic, at 5.5 to 6.2.

Water

When leaves appear on the plant, water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist. Never let the plant dry out, as leaves may turn yellow and drop. If growing outdoors during peak heat, water every day.

Stop watering the plant when the leaves start to die back. Resume watering in spring after winter dormancy. New leaves will reappear as temperatures warm.

Temperature and Humidity

Caladiums are seasonal tuberous plants, even in the tropics. Gardeners plant them in the spring after the threat of frost or in the summer, where they thrive in heat and humidity. When grown indoors, they do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and plenty of moisture.

Caladiums grow best from spring into autumn, peaking in the summer. The warmer, the better for caladium houseplants. Aim for 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 65 degrees at night, as that is the temperature at which tubers begin to grow. Keep the humidity as high as is practical.

When planting outdoors, you can transplant potted tubers (or, better yet, transfer them in peat pots) after the last frost date for your area. Plants grown this way should be started indoors for four to six weeks before transplanting in warm soil. Caladiums’ rest period comes in the autumn or winter. It isn’t determined by temperature or light cycle but by how long the plants have been growing.

Fertilizer

Fertilize the plant every two weeks during the growing season with liquid fertilizer or use slow-release pellets.

Types of Caladium

There are many cultivars—caladium comes in green, red, pink, white, and even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from C. bicolor, native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Choose your variety based on its appearance. They will make a showy border or a single plant.

A few noteworthy cultivars include:

• Caladium ‘Creamsicle’: This variety can be a vigorous grower. It features large green leaves accented with vibrant red and veined with bright white.
• Caladium ‘White Christmas’: Large, arrow-shaped green leaves with a heavy “dusting” of bright white make a simple and striking color combination in this variety.
• Caladium ‘Miss Muffet’: This dwarf variety reaches only about 8 inches in height and has lime-green leaves flecked with bright pink spots.
• Caladium ‘Puppy Love’: This relative newcomer has pink leaves edged in green and can tolerate full sun in some climates.

Pruning Caladium

These plants do not require much pruning, but during the growing season, consider using sterilized scissors or pruners to remove dead, damaged, or diseased leaves and stems.

Propagating Caladium

When the plants die back in the fall or early winter, divide mature tubers using the following steps:

1. In the fall, allow the leaves to die back. Let the soil dry out, then lift the tubers from the ground.
2. Store the tubers in a box in a cool, dry, dark place, like a basement, with temperatures at about 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Use a sharp, sterile cutting tool to cut tubers in late winter or early spring. Make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site (with an eye or a knob).
4. Allow the tubers to “heal” for a week, developing a callus on the cut ends.
5. Plant the tubers with the “eye” facing up outdoors or in pots again when the next growing season begins, and soil temperatures are over 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Potting and Repotting Caladiums

Plant caladium tubers 2 inches deep, with the eyes facing upward, in pots at least 6 inches deep. If planting rows in raised boxes, large tubers should be at least 8 inches apart, while smaller tubers can be closer together. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Make sure the pots have ample drainage holes.

Overwintering

Even under the best conditions, caladium foliage lasts only a few months before the leaves start to die back, and the plant goes dormant again, which is normal. Pull up the tubers, store them, and replant them next year for another show.

Common Pests

Caladium is not bothered by many detrimental pests. But, they may be afflicted by caterpillars and grasshoppers that chew on the leaves and need specific ways to eliminate the activity. Other pests that suck on the leaves and can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps include:

Common Problems With Caladium

Caladium leaves are typically colorful and attractive, so you will easily notice if the plants have problems. Cut off any spathes as soon as they appear to ensure that all of the plant’s energy is devoted to its gorgeous leaves. If your caladium leaves turn unsightly colors, the issue may be easy to fix.

Leaves Turning Yellow

Caladium leaves will turn yellow if the plant is overwatered, underwatered, gets too much light, or experiences temperature and humidity stress. The plant may also be experiencing nutrient deficiencies, such as a lack of magnesium, nitrogen, or iron.

Leaves Turning Brown

There could be many reasons your caladium leaves are turning brown, including:

• The plant is too dry.
• It’s getting too much direct sunlight.
• It’s not getting enough humidity.
• It’s over-fertilized.