How to Grow and Care for Jade Pothos

Jade Pothos Care

Like most other pothos varieties, Epipremnum aureum ‘Jade’ has a forgiving nature. You should be able to grow it in most rooms in your home, regardless of the light conditions. Here are the main care requirements for growing a Jade pothos:

• Place it in a location with bright, indirect light.
• Plant it in well-draining potting mix.
• Let the top two inches of soil dry out before you water.
• Keep the plants out of temperatures below 50 degrees F and away from cold drafts and heating vents.
• Fertilize every two weeks with a diluted houseplant fertilizer.
• Let it climb a trellis (with support) or grow along a shelf.

Light

Although jade pothos prefers bright, indirect light, it adapts well to a range of light conditions, with some people even growing it in offices with artificial, fluorescent lighting. Sitting on a north-facing window or in the middle of a room with a south-facing window will likely result in a thriving plant with lush foliage. Watch for scorched leaves if you position your jade pothos in a bright spot.

This cultivar might not have the striking foliage variegation of some pothos varieties. However, another advantage is its solid-colored leaves have a greater photosynthetic capacity, meaning it’s an ideal choice if your home has more limited sun (which may result in fading variegation in other varieties).

Soil

Epipremnum aureum ‘Jade’ does well in most potting soils, providing they’re well-drained. However, one thing this plant won’t appreciate is wet feet. Adding perlite or peat moss (or the more sustainable coco coir) helps improve drainage if you have concerns.

Water

Jade pothos doesn’t have a high-maintenance watering schedule. One of the biggest reasons this hard-to-kill plant goes into decline is overwatering. So, never leave your jade pothos to sit in standing water. If, after irrigating, there is any water left in a run-off dish below the pot, make sure you immediately drain this away.

This drought-resistant cultivar prefers the top two inches of soil to dry thoroughly between watering, especially in low-light conditions.

If you’re unsure when to water, look out for the leaves starting to droop (but not shrivel). Even in the summertime, you might only need to water once a week, and in the winter, considerably less.

Temperature and Humidity

These plants enjoy living in warm households between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In the winter months, temperatures around 60 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal, but anything lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit is a problem.

Most of the time, jade pothos will cope with standard home humidity levels. Even though these tropical plants are lovers of high humidity, they survive in low-humidity rooms. They’re perfect plants for humid bathrooms and kitchens⁠—even if the rooms don’t get a lot of light. Just keep these cold-sensitive plants away from drafty windows and heating vents in the winter.

Fertilizer

Jade pothos aren’t heavy feeders and manage without fertilizer if you pot them in a good soil mix. But, to promote the most vigorous growth and deep green foliage, provide a bi-monthly feed of half-strength, balanced houseplant fertilizer or an organic fish emulsion.

Types of Jade Pothos

While there are no cultivars or varieties of Jade pothos, the plant is often confused with other pothos varieties, namely:

• Golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) has speckles and stripes, unlike Jade pothos, which has solid green foliage. The leaves of golden pothos are also slightly smaller and narrower. Jade pothos is a naturally occurring mutation of golden pothos; it is a little more drought-resistant.
• Pearls and jade pothos (Epipremnum aureum ‘Pearls and Jade’) is a variety named for its
  green and white variegated foliage. The University of Florida developed it in 2009, and like the jade pothos plant, it originated from marble queen pothos. Unlike the pearls and jade variety, jade pothos has all-green leaves. Pearls and jade pothos also prefers more light.
• Jade satin pothos (Scindapsus pictus ‘Jade’) is a member of the of the Scindapsus genus, which is closely related to the Epipremnum genus to which most pothos belong. Jade satin pothos has large, thick, heart-shaped leaves and deep green coloring. Contrary to some of its pothos relatives, it is rather rare and might be difficult to find.

Pruning

These low-maintenance plants don’t need much in the way of tidying up. However, you might want to trim the vines in the spring if they get too long for your living space. Left to grow, the vines reach lengths up to 30 feet long, so occasionally shaking them loose helps prevent them from becoming entwined.

Removing yellowing leaves or less healthy vines helps direct energy to the most vigorous vines and encourages new growth.

Propagating Jade Pothos

This plant variety can’t be grown by seed. If you want to add new plants to your collection or gift one to friends, it’s great to know that jade pothos is easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Here’s how:

1. Select a healthy stem and use a sterile, sharp knife or shears to take a cutting with at least three leaves. Cut at a 45-degree angle around an inch below the bottom leaf.
2. Take the leaf at the bottom off (leaving at least two leaves on the cutting).
3. Put the stem in a glass of tepid water, ensuring the leaves don’t touch the water.
4. Wait for new roots to sprout over a few weeks. When they’re at least a few inches long (usually after a month to two), the cutting is ready to transfer into potting soil, which will develop a stronger root system.
5. Put the pot in a position that receives bright but filtered light and keep the soil moist but not saturated.

It is possible to skip the step of submersing the cutting in water but starting in potting soil takes longer, and the cutting will be more at risk of root rot in those early stages.

Potting and Repotting Jade Pothos

These vigorous growers don’t appreciate being too pot-bound, so you might need to repot it annually. A sign that they need repotting is drooping foliage after regular watering. Also check if the roots are growing from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Repot in a container one or two sizes bigger than the existing pot, making sure you use fresh, well-draining potting soil rich in organic matter and that the pot has good drainage holes.

This plant doesn’t like when its roots get disturbed too much. The best time to transplant a jade pothos is when a root ball has developed with the soil surrounding it. Gently pull the plant partially out of the pot. If the roots seem meshed firmly with the soil, it is likely ready to move to a new pot. Transferring the plant with its root ball intact improves transplanting success.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Jade pothos has no significant problems with pests, but if you’ve been guilty of leaving your plant a little too damp, keep an eye out for mealybugs (which thrive on unhealthy plants in stagnant conditions). Applying a biodegradable soapy water mixture to the leaves helps kill them off and then take care not to leave your plant too wet going forward.

Common Problems With Jade Pothos

Jade pothos are low-fuss houseplants and don’t suffer many problems. Neglecting the watering or watering too much and lighting can lead to issues, but most are easy to fix.

Leaves Turning Yellow

To avoid unattractive yellowing leaves, avoid giving your jade pothos too much water and prolonged direct sun exposure.

Brown Tips

While overwatering is a bigger problem for jade pothos, prolonged dry spells often results in the edges of the foliage turning brown. Rather than letting the soil dry out completely, rewater after the top two inches dries out; however, don’t let the rootball dry out completely.

Stringy Vines

If your plant gets “leggy” or has stringy vines, it usually means they are growing out in search of sun. Move the plant closer to a light source. Legginess also occurs if the plant is not getting watered on a regular schedule or it’s ready for pruning. To reverse legginess, prune the plant down to its base in the spring to encourage new growth.